Photo of Eico HF-20 amplifier

Easy Way to Turn
the Eico HF-20
into a Monoblock

Drive the tape output to use the HF-20 as a great monoblock.

Copyright © 2010 by Stephen H. Lafferty. All rights reserved. Rev. 0a

It’s hard not to notice that Eico HF-20 integrated amplifiers have been plentiful on the vintage market. Eico sold them as far back as 1955, and they became a hit in the DIY hifi movement which flourished in postwar America. 1957 ad for Eico HF-20 amplifier As you can see from the 1957 ad at right, the per-
formance of the HF-20 is quite good, due in part to its excellent output transformer.

It’s only natural that today’s vacuum tube enthusiasts would want to use these workhorse amps. You need two for stereo, of course. The problem is that it’s an integrated amp. If you try to use a pair as such, you have difficulty maintaining balance between the channels, while you adjust the volume with two controls.

An easy solution for this is to add a preamp to the system and use the HF-20’s as basic monoblocks.Photo of stereo system with Eico ST-84 preamp, two HF-20 amplifiers I watched my big brother Bill, do just that back around 1961. In recent years, I have reproduced the system he built, finding and restoring each of the pieces. You can see the result at right, with the Eico ST-84 preamp driving the HF-20’s. That worked well except for the fact that it cascades the tone controls of the preamp with those of the HF-20’s. That leads to frequency response errors.

Using the Tape Output as an Input

In the early days of hifi, designers at Eico (and other companies) were just learning about the best ways to configure integrated hifi amplifiers. Unfortunately for the
HF-20 design, they ended-up making a bad choice in the placement of the Tape Thumbnail image of Eico HF-20 schematic Output. (Click on the thumbnail at right to see the schematic) They put it after the Level and Tone controls instead of before them, as is the standard today. I can just hear them debating the merits: “But this way, you can use the tone controls to correct the frequency response for recordings...” “Yeah, but you would be forever screwing-up recordings due to having the tone controls set to compensate for speakers and such.”

Photo of HF20 tape outputToday though, we can turn that oddity into an advantage: The tape output jack (at left) provides almost a direct connection to the input of the power amplifier (PA) portion of the HF-20. If the Loudness control is set to max, there will not be any processing of a signal driven into the tape output, before it is passed to the PA. However, to utilize this properly, we must do something about the internal amp (V2), which is already driving that point. The problem is not just the loading of the plate resistance of V2; there is also negative feedback present which lowers the impedance at the output of V2, substantially. Photo of 12AX7 pins with pin-6 insulated

One could simply pull V2, but I didn’t want to leave my HF-20 with an empty socket on top. Another option would be to disconnect either C7 or V2-6 under the chassis. I would like to keep these restored HF-20’s in stock condition, though. My solution is to use a piece of narrow diameter heatshrink to insulate pin-6 of V2, disconnecting the plate, as shown at right. This works well and leaves the amp nearly pristine.

Results

As expected, driving the tape output from the preamp delivers excellent audio reproduction. Bypassing the preceding two stages reduces noise, distortion and improves frequency response. Sensitivity of the new input seems just right for the
ST-84 preamp. On the HF-20’s, it’s best to keep Loudness at max, though I use a slight decrease on one side to compensate for a minor imbalance. Positions of the Level, Bass and Treble controls do not matter much but it would be good practice to keep level at minimum and tone controls centered. Set that way, the input impedance should be about 77kohms.

 

Reader Comments


Posted by Steve L. May 06, 2012 - 12:34 pm
Hi James, The HF20 was made with a power switch on the Treble control. If yours has a separate toggle switch, it must have been added by an owner. It could be that the treble pot had to be replaced or the switch on it went bad. It's not so easy to find the right pot and switch combo for replacement, any more.

You mention that the knobs look really crusty. If that is the white mold that they often are seen with, it is easily removed with a toothbrush and 409 cleaner. With doing that and maybe a little plastic polishing, you can have them looking as good as new, pretty quickly.

Posted by James R.Powell III. May 06, 2012 - 12:09 pm
Hi, Patrick I didn't really do much to the amp. The knobs looked really crusty. I may try to restore them. I like the yellow gold knobs from amplifiedparts.com. I simply use the aux input, by using a high qualty RCA Monster cable with 1/4' adapter. I addede a Shure tube phono preamp just before the input to drive the input slightly. I have the amp connected to a MusicMan 4x12 cab. I have some various pedals to drive the amp. I wish I had a second Eico HF20! I plan to post a video documenting this amp. I plan to find another Eico HF 20 or get a similar lower watt amp. I have seen a Jet City Pico valve. It's only 5 watts has a similar look. Licensed by THD. THD has a few amps similar shape and cage style. Univalve and Bivalve.

Posted by James R. Powell III. May 06, 2012 - 11:55 am
I noticed my Eico HF 20 has an on/off switch. The other pics of them I have seen do not have a switch. Curious?

Posted by Patrick McGreevy May 02, 2012 - 11:56 pm
Hi James. I just acquired an HF-20 that I plan on converting to a guitar amp. It's my first stab at an integrated amp conversion. Dave Hunter has some helpful info and I've found a few things online. Any advice or hints?

Posted by Steve L. April 29, 2012 - 03:25 pm
Hi James, I don't know much about instrument amp applications but I appreciate your posting your experience with the HF20 here.

Posted by James R. Powell III. April 28, 2012 - 11:40 am
I have recently conveted this amp to a guitar amp. The knobs look really bad, it was really dusty, so I gave it a proper dusting. I ordered some gold yellow knobs for it. I have it connected to Vintage Music Man 70's era 4x12 super wide cabinet. I am driving it with some nice vintage voiced pedals and modern high gain sounds. This amp sounds really good. I am doing a strange trick to get stereo. I have a high quality TC Electronic Nova delay. The stereo out goes to a Hughes and Kettner Red Box speaker simulator. I sent the XLR out with a high impedance 1/4"transformer to a personal monitor fullrange. The Red Box sim does a perfect job. This strange combination with monitor up high sounds crazy and enormous. I might get a second Eico. I already have a nice Marshall stereo tube amp 50 watts/ 25 watts switchable. The Eico is lighter but needs a handle.


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